Wan’s Mandarin House celebrates its 60th anniversary this fall, a milestone that represents far more than longevity. In an industry where most restaurants never make it past a few years, the Fort Lauderdale institution has survived—and thrived—for six decades by staying true to the values established by its founders: serve delicious food with a generous helping of hospitality.
Originally opened in Miami in 1966 by Chinese immigrants Lee Pong Wan and his wife, Hide Wan, the restaurant moved to Broward County in 1977 before settling into its current home at 664 N. Federal Highway in 2005. Today, four generations of the Wan family have helped shape one of South Florida’s most beloved Chinese restaurants.
For Alex Kuk, who took over operations from his aunt in 2024, that history comes with an enormous sense of responsibility.
“I don’t think I truly understood what legacy meant until I stepped into this role,” Kuk says. “I can’t let my family’s legacy down.”
Kuk points out the courage it took his great-grandfather to start a business in Miami in the 1960s despite speaking little English. “It has always been hard to open a restaurant,” he says. “I can’t imagine what it was like for my great-grandfather. He was bold enough to advertise in the newspaper, bring family members over from overseas and build something from nothing. That takes grit.”
That grit became the foundation for an establishment that has outlasted countless dining trends. While menus have evolved over the years, Kuk says the heart of Wan’s remains remarkably unchanged.
“We still serve Chinese food. Most of our recipes haven’t changed. Hospitality hasn’t changed,” he says. “We’ve even gone back to white tablecloths because that’s what my grandfather believed in.”
The chef/owner adds that Chinese food has always occupied a unique place in American culture. “It feeds a crowd. It travels well. Honestly, it tastes even better the next day,” he says with a laugh. “It has everything—vegetables, rice, protein, sweet, sour, salty. Then you finish with the fortune cookie. It’s part of people’s memories.”
Those memories are what keep customers returning.
“So many people tell me they grew up eating here,” Kuk says. “Maybe their family couldn’t afford to go out often, but when they did, they ordered spare ribs or fried rice. Those dishes bring them back to a time when their biggest worry was homework. Food has an incredible ability to bring those feelings back.”
Although he grew up in the restaurant industry, Kuk never intended to spend his career in restaurants. He initially enrolled at Nova Southeastern University to study medicine before discovering biology and chemistry weren’t for him. A family friend suggested he look into hospitality management at Florida International University. “I actually thought he meant hospital management,” Kuk recalls, laughing.
Instead, FIU introduced him to the culinary arts through chef Michael Moran’s classes.
“I learned there were different knives, different ingredients, different techniques. I fell in love with cooking, but even more than that, I fell in love with hospitality. I love taking care of people. I love making someone’s day.” That passion eventually led him full-circle back to the family business.
Running a 60-year-old restaurant isn’t without challenges. Labor shortages, rising food costs, technology, and changing consumer habits require constant adaptation. Kuk embraces innovation—but only when it serves a purpose.
“The change has to be genuine,” he says. “Every decision has to be good for the customer, good for the staff, good for the brand and good for the business. You can’t chase every opportunity just because it’s there.”
Ultimately, he believes hospitality is what has carried Wan’s through six decades.
“I always think about a Maya Angelou quote: People will forget what you said and what you did, but they’ll never forget how you made them feel,” Kuk says. “That’s what we do here. People come in, and they’re greeted with hugs. They’re treated like family.”
As Wan’s celebrates 60 years, the restaurant is still very much a family affair. Although his relatives have officially retired, they’re still a part of the fabric of Wan’s. “My aunt, uncle and mom now work four days a week instead of seven,” he jokes. “This isn’t just their job. It’s their social life. It’s their book club. They actually come home from vacation early because they want to be back at the restaurant.”
For Kuk, respecting Wan’s heritage while embracing its future is, literally, what he was born to do.
“I wish my grandparents and great-grandparents could see what we’ve built,” he says. “In our culture, we honor our ancestors. Every day I walk into this restaurant, I remember that I’m carrying their torch. That’s the legacy I’m trying to protect.”
